![]() (Image/Wayne Scraba) Note here, we have an 8.5mm wire in a loom designed for a 10.5mm wire. This gives you a pretty good idea with regard to length. *** Tip 11 When you’re figuring out how to layout your wires, it’s a good idea to loosely install them in the intended looms before you terminate the ends, add sleeves and so on. You can see how it literally bites into the wire. (Image/Wayne Scraba) This provides for a much more secure crimp. *** Tip 10 When crimping terminals, Summit Racing advises you bend the terminal slightly. In most cases, its next to impossible to remove and install the boot after the terminal is installed. ![]() *** Tip 9 If your application calls for additional wire sleeves and shrink sleeves, be absolutely certain you get everything set up on the wire (pair of shrinks, number shrinks, sleeves, etc.) before you complete the termination. It goes a long way toward distributor boot installation. (Image/Wayne Scraba) You can fight with this for a long time, but the easiest solution is to use a little bit of dielectric grease in the boot. *** Tip 8 When installing the distributor boots over the wires during assembly, you’ll have to pull the boot back quite a ways over the wire in order to cleanly install the terminal. They test wonderfully by the way-and are the writer’s new “go-to” ignition wire! (Image/Wayne Scraba) Here, we’re going through a set of Summit Racing 8.5mm “Ultra Low Ohm” wires with a multimeter. *** Tip 7 When assembling wires, it’s a good idea to test them for continuity before, during, and after the build. With different combinations, you might discover more than one terminal will need to differ from the rest of the spark plug wire “pack”. Here, I had to use a 90-degree terminal and boot. *** Tip 6 The lone wire that didn’t work with a 135-degree boot was cylinder number 7. But in this case, seven wires work better with 135-degree boots and terminals. The most common wire set recommended has straight plug terminals and boots. Case-in-point is the writer’s big block Chevy. The reason is, headers of all sorts often have pipes in different locations or with different diameters. *** Tip 5 If a car is modified (for example, headers), then you might not be able to use the recommended wire set. (Image/Wayne Scraba) This tightened up the jungle at the cap, and still made it completely workable. (Image/Wayne Scraba) It was pretty clear that wasn’t go to work. *** Tip 4 When I started this wiring job, I came up with this routing arrangement. ![]() If you follow this plan, there’s a pretty good chance you’ll have a decent length wire left over as a spare. *** Tip 3 Try starting with the shortest wire in the ignition wire kit you can get away with and then continue to use the next shortest (and so on). (Image/Wayne Scraba) (Image/Wayne Scraba) *** Tip 2 If you install a brass contact terminal in the cap, then it’s easy to approximate the length of the wire you need for a specific cylinder. It’s a good idea to either follow through the firing order or go through one bank of the engine at a time (my preference). *** Tip 1 When assembling and routing a new set of ignition wires for the first time, don’t take a helter-skelter approach. *** 18 Ignition Wire Assembly & Routing Tips If you’re careful, you’ll end up with a clean package that flat works. What follows are eighteen tips that will help you weave your way through the wire maze. Sure, it takes more time, but it looks better, it works better, and makes engine maintenance a bunch easier. The alternative though, is to take your time and plan the assembly and route path for each and every wire. The end result is usually a combination that cooks wires, melts spark plug boots, and causes nothing but frustration. Here, the wires usually look like some kind of mad science project gone bad. And the job can be quick and dirty, but the results usually speak for themselves. Building and routing ignition wires seems to be a simple task-at least at first glance.
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